Table Talk: Continuing their move east along Spruce
Chef R. Evan Turney and restaurateurs George and Valerie Anni keep edging east along Spruce Street in Washington Square West. As a follow-up to their Valanni (1229 Spruce) and Mercato (1216 Spruce), they just opened Varga Bar on the corner of 10th and Spruce (941 Spruce St., 215-627-5200).
Chef R. Evan Turney and restaurateurs George and Valerie Anni keep edging east along Spruce Street in Washington Square West. As a follow-up to their Valanni (1229 Spruce) and Mercato (1216 Spruce), they just opened
Varga Bar
on the corner of 10th and Spruce (941 Spruce St., 215-627-5200).
Varga Bar, with a retro-inspired, comfort-food pub menu, replaces the short-lived Azul Cantina. Decor, including a ceiling mural of World War II-style pinups, black-and-white tile floor, and beveled glass, was inspired by Alberto Vargas, the illustrator.
An all-American beer list has 22 on tap. Turney's menu includes appetizers such as tomato soup, Kobe beef sliders, and mac and cheese. There's a cheese board, too. Five entrees on the working menu included rigatoni with meatballs ($15) and steak and fries (the priciest dish, at $22). For now, it's open for dinner daily; lunch will start in mid-June.
Who's this Zama?
As soon as the liquor license can be transferred, Avram Hornik will cede
Loie,
his bistro/bar at 128 S. 19th St., in favor of a Japanese restaurant from chef Hiroyuki "Zama" Tanaka.
The rollout of Zama is aimed at early fall.
Tanaka, 38, came to the United States 19 years ago as a transfer student from Temple University's Tokyo campus. "First time on an airplane," he says. Then he fell into the restaurant crowd with stints at Genji, the Ritz-Carlton, and Sonoma. "Philadelphia fit me," he says.
Tanaka, executive sushi chef at Pod when it opened, helps out at Morimoto. Zama will feature his signature sushi and simple, seasonal Japanese dishes at moderate prices. "The reputation of Japanese food [in the United States] is very bad right now," Zama says, decrying the preponderance of "teriyaki, tempura, hibachi, and instant items."
Hornik, who owns the building, says Zama is a "better use for the space."
Hornik is hoping for a mid-August opening of Duo, the pizzeria/bar he's opening with partner Mark Fichera at 39th and Chestnut Streets.
What's coming
Meze
is the tentative name for the restaurant under construction across from L'Oca at 2028 Fairmount Ave. in Fairmount. Co-owner David Orphanides, a zoning attorney, says he and partner Savvas Novrosidis (Fairmount Pizza) intend it as a "comfortable, clean, fresh" place that will "focus on the human experience." Orphanides says food from chef Tim Bellew (MANNA catering, plus Fire in Cherry Hill) will include as many organic ingredients as possible. They hope to open after Labor Day.
The shuttered Bennigan's on Easton Road just north of the Pennsylvania Turnpike's Willow Grove interchange will become Brick House Tavern & Tap, an all-American gastropub out of Houston with another branch in suburban Chicago. It's aimed at August.
Jannie, the popular Chinese-Japanese combo in Northeast Philly's Cottman-Bustleton Center and next to the Regal movieplex in Warrington, has a third location coming up in a few weeks at 1810 Ridge Pike in Royersford.
Ooka, the Japanese restaurant with branches in Doylestown and Willow Grove, is looking at a "first half of June" opening at 764 Bethlehem Pike in Montgomeryville (a former Blockbuster Video), with a full bar and sake/wine list. Executive chef Shuji Hiyakawa's resume includes Morimoto; he was opening chef at Kome - also owned by Benny and Lenny Huang - in the Promenade Shops at Saucon Valley.