Russian River pinot noirs aren’t usually a bargain — this one is
The Russian River Valley appellation is nearly as prestigious as Napa Valley, with a focus on pinot noir. A few wineries still make accessible wines, like this "Sonoma Reserve" from Frei Brothers.
Frei Brothers “Sonoma Reserve” Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley, California
$22.99 14.6% alcohol
PLCB Item #8141
Sale price through July 6; regularly $26.99
There’s only one California wine appellation that comes close to having the prestige of Napa Valley, and that is the nearby Russian River Valley. Where the former is renowned for its cabernet sauvignon, Russian River Valley earned its reputation on the strength of its pinot noir, as well as chardonnay and sparkling wine.
Located 50 miles from the city of Napa in neighboring Sonoma County, the Russian River Valley is closer to the Pacific coastline, resulting in a considerably cooler climate. Not only are the vineyards here exposed to brisk ocean breezes from the west, but also to a daily influx of fog that rolls upriver to blanket the vines, amplifying the coastal cooling effect by introducing moisture that will later evaporate and delaying the onset of the sun’s warmth each morning.
These conditions would be a recipe for disaster with a thick-skinned grape like cabernet sauvignon that would struggle to ripen here, but are ideal for thinner-skinned pinot noir. Russian River Valley was formally recognized as an American Viticultural Area in 1983 thanks to the promise it was showing even then to make some of the best pinot noir and chardonnay wines in the country.
While many Russian River pinot noirs are priced out of reach for bargain shoppers nowadays, there are still a few wineries like Frei Brothers whose entry-level cuvées remain accessible and widely distributed. Stylistically, this “Sonoma Reserve” bottling exemplifies the lusciously ripe American approach to pinot noir, bursting with flavors of black cherries, pomegranate, and strawberry jam. Like many well-made pinot noirs, the wine has a leafy undercurrent of aromatics reminiscent of black tea or pipe tobacco, and makes a particularly apt partner for foods cooked with garlic, onion, or mushrooms.
Also available at:
Total Wine & More in Claymont, $20.99
Berkley Fine Wine & Spirits in Clarksboro, $21.14
Wine Warehouse in Clementon, $21.49