Put down the cabernet sauvignon and reach for the merlot

Great Wine Values

J. Lohr “Los Osos” Merlot

Paso Robles, Calif.

$16.69, 14% alcohol

PLCB Item #7338

Sale price through May 4; regularly $18.69

Merlot is closely related to cabernet sauvignon; both of these half-siblings are typically ranked among the world’s top three red wine grapes in terms of quality potential.

Cabernet sauvignon has a reputation for producing “better” wines and commands higher prices, while merlot’s prominent role as a punchline in the Paul Giamatti movie Sideways is still hampering demand for this varietal two decades later.

Neither situation makes all that much sense in today’s wine landscape.

Historically, wine quality was not assessed on taste alone. The ability to resist spoilage was central to any wine’s reputation and perceived value in the days before refrigeration and modern winemaking hygiene became the norm. It’s not clear why a wine’s longevity should still be considered a major factor today, when almost all wines are being consumed within a few months of purchase.

Cabernet sauvignon-based wines are often marginally higher in the polyphenolic compounds that contribute to a red wine’s depth of color and resistance to oxidation, which can, and often does, allow them to last longer in the cellar than those based on merlot.

However, it is common knowledge in the wine trade that many wine lovers favor merlot over cabernet sauvignon in blind comparisons, with its dark fruit flavors and a mouthfeel that is softer and less harsh. Because merlot has unjustly inherited less prestige and, therefore, remains in less demand, this leads to a situation where too many people pay more to drink a wine they enjoy less.

This delicious merlot, from the Paso Robles region of California’s Central Coast, makes a perfect example. In a sampling alongside its cabernet sauvignon equivalent from J. Lohr, named “Seven Oaks,” both wines are dense, dry, and full-bodied; loaded with black fruit flavors; and nicely tamed by aging in oak barrels.

The cabernet sauvignon may be marginally more concentrated, but the merlot’s riot of black cherry and blackberry lightly seasoned with vanilla is more overtly gratifying for most drinkers. If you are among those who prefer the merlot side by side, why pay $4 more for the cabernet sauvignon?

Also available at:

Wine Warehouse in Mantua, N.J., and Voorhees, N.J., $12.98 (winewarehousenj);

Joe Canal’s in Marlton, N.J., $12.99 (marltonjoecanals.com), and Lawrenceville, N.J., $12.99 (megaliquorhub.com)