An Italian red for wine drinkers who think Italian reds have too much bite
Italian reds often register as too tannic for Americans accustomed to California reds. But the lighter Ripasso-style wines of the Valpolicella region are perfect for fans of New World red wine.
Masi “Campofiorin”
Veneto, Italy
$16.79 13.5% alcohol
PLCB Item #6188
Sale price through July 6; regularly $19.79
Italian red wines are almost always drier, more acidic, and more tannic than California reds, resulting in a sharpness that can be an acquired taste for Americans, like the bracing grip of unsweetened iced tea after years of drinking Snapple. However, there are some Italian reds whose fruitiness and velvety texture are tailor-made for fans of New World reds. In terms of quality potential, the Ripasso wines of the Valpolicella region are at the top of that list, and within this category Masi’s Campofiorin is not just the original, but a trusted and iconic label.
Historically, Valpolicella was known for two distinct red wine styles made using the same local grapes. The affordable version was labeled as simply Valpolicella — a pale, lightweight red inspired by French Beaujolais. There was an expensive specialty version too, called Amarone della Valpolicella, whose name translates loosely as the “big, bitter one from Valpolicella.” Amarones were made only from the best Valpolicella fruit that had been partially dried for many weeks before fermentation, resulting in a darker, stronger wine that was slightly sweet with a raisin-like flavor.
In 1964, Masi was the first to commercialize a clever adaptation where the pomace, or grape solids, left over after making Amarone were dumped into a tank of the lighter Valpolicella wine to spark a second flavor-boosting fermentation. It was so tasty that it became an immediate sensation, leading other vintners to copy the “Ripasso” methodology. Campofiorin remains the region’s benchmark for the style it pioneered. With less than 14% alcohol and only 4 grams of residual sugar per liter, it is a supple midweight wine that is quite dry and food friendly. And where so many Italian reds can seem harsh in their tartness and tannin levels, this one has a riper flavor profile, as if someone had distilled the essence of decadent chocolate-covered brandied cherries and infused it seamlessly into orchard-fresh sour cherry juice, leaving all the excess sugar, fat, and booze behind. It is a pure pleasure to drink and a great introduction to Italian wines for those who cut their wine teeth in California.
Also available at:
Total Wine & More in Claymont, $16.99
Roger Wilco in Pennsauken, $18.98
Canal’s Liquors in Merchantville, $19.09