Dried apples and dumplings star in this hearty Pennsylvania Dutch stew

This time of year, my ideal food includes anything with the word “dumpling” attached to it — even better if there’s a basic ingredient used in an unexpected way. That’s what crossed my mind when I encountered an image of schnitz un knepp — a humble stew of ham, fluffy dumplings, and dried apples — on a favorite cider maker’s Instagram.

Also known as shnitz und knepp and schnitz-un-gnepp, among other variations, the classic Pennsylvania Dutch dish came to America with immigrants from the upper Rhineland area of Germany, said William Woys Weaver, a food historian and author of several books focusing on Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine. The combination of smoked meat and fruit in a stew goes back to at least the Middle Ages, and the addition of dumplings to the mix can be traced to the area around the German state of Baden-Württemberg, Weaver said in a phone interview. “That’s the extender to round it out so it’s a complete meal.”

The name of the dish translates to dried fruit (schnitz) and dumplings (knepp or gnepp). Though often taken to mean dried apples, schnitz (coming from the German verb schnitz, meaning to slice or cut) can refer to a variety of dried fruits, including peaches and pears. Dried fruit in a savory, stewy context isn’t unheard of — think dried apricots in an Armenian lentil soup — but for me, the generous application of dried apples really sets this dish apart.

How were apples dried back in the day? With schnitzing parties, in which people gathered to cut up loads of fruit in bulk to dry in small structures with drawers built specifically for this task. Schnitzing parties doubled as community building, both figuratively and literally. “There’s a Pennsylvania Dutch expression, a ‘schnitz baby’ — a baby that shows up nine months after a schnitzing party,” Weaver said.

There are as many variations of schnitz un knepp as there are people who cook it, said Adam Diltz, the owner and chef of Elwood in Philadelphia, a restaurant rooted in Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine. In October, he made a version with ham, onions, dried apples, and a biscuit dough dumpling to pair with Ploughman Farm Cider for a one-night dinner hosted at the restaurant. “It’s a peasant dish, a one-pot stew,” said the chef, whose brother raised and cured the ham for the occasion.

There are even sweet versions that ax the meat in favor of sugar and more dried fruit, such as raisins or currants. Some people add spices, too, said New York chef Chris Scott, author of Homage: Recipes and Stories From an Amish Soul Food Kitchen (Chronicle Books, 2022). Growing up in Coatesville, he first tried schnitz un knepp in elementary school. “I have to think back then they’d buy all the store-bought food, have frozen things reheated, but I’m assuming that day something didn’t come in, so one of the lunch ladies cooked it up,” he said.

Though today it’s elevated to a status that defines food from the region, schnitz un knepp was once used to disparage Pennsylvania Dutch cooking. “For the non-Pennsylvania Dutch, it was sort of a culinary mess, a symbol of poverty,” said Weaver. “It’s not the kind of thing you’d find a Philadelphia Quaker serving in a silver bowl.” After the Civil War, though, new patriotism surrounded Pennsylvania Dutch foods, in particular schnitz un knepp. “It became a symbol of pride,” said Weaver, whose 2013 book, As American As Shoofly Pie: The Foodlore and Fakelore of Pennsylvania Dutch Cuisine, examines the region’s foodways.

As times changed, the frugal farmhouse dish entered the realm of nostalgia. And like anything nostalgic, it can benefit from a little updating. “For me, it’s one of those dishes that after your third or fourth bite, you wish there was more to it,” said Scott.

The version I’ve settled on keeps the traditional combination of apples, protein, and dumplings but offers variations in the meat — use a smoked ham hock or pork shank, a chunk of leftover ham, or a smoked sausage like kielbasa. Or forget the meat altogether and go with dried beans and smoked paprika. (For other meatless ideas, Scott suggested smoked sweet potatoes, and Weaver recommended hen of the woods mushrooms, also known as maitake.) I found that a chopped onion and a splash of cider vinegar go a long way in adding depth and brightness, and a few handfuls of roughly torn kale or other sturdy greens lend more flavor and make it a one-pot meal. Finish it off by dropping in spoonfuls of a simple dumpling batter, which steam on top of the stew until they’re satisfyingly fluffy. Freshly cracked black pepper over each serving offers a nice little punch (as would chile flakes).

Perhaps best of all, schnitz un knepp requires very little tending. Let your protein of choice simmer until ready, add the apples, stir together the dumpling dough, drop them in. Fifteen minutes later, you’ll be rewarded with comforting dumplings and a savory-sweet stew. It’s a simple, versatile dish that I can muster up no matter my mood.

4 to 6 servings (makes about 9 1/2 cups)

Schnitz un knepp, a classic Pennsylvania Dutch stew featuring dried fruit and dumplings, makes for versatile comfort food. Ideal for a lazy weekend meal, this low-maintenance dish gets its flavor from smoked ham hock or pork shank simmered for a few hours before sliced, dried apples — and fluffy dumplings that steam right on top — get added.

There are as many versions of this stew as cooks who make it, so you have plenty of options for customizing. Let the apples cook longer, until they break down and thicken the stew. Use chicken or pork broth for a super-rich concoction. Add a little kale and chopped onion to round out the flavors and make it a one-pot meal. See Variations and Substitutions for a shortcut version using sliced, smoked kielbasa, as well as vegetarian and vegan tweaks that swap in beans for the meat and oil for the egg.

Make ahead: The stew, minus the dumplings, can be made up to 1 day in advance. Reheat, adding more water or broth, if desired, and mix and steam the dumplings right before serving.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 3 days; store the dumplings and stew separately to avoid soggy dumpling leftovers, and reheat them together.

Where to buy: Look for meaty ham hocks or pork shanks at a local butcher. If the ham hock doesn’t have much meat, opt for a shank.

Active time: 30 mins; Total time: 3 hours

Ingredients

1 smoked ham hock or pork shank (1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

8 cups water, or chicken or pork broth, preferably no-salt-added, plus more as needed

1 medium yellow onion (8 ounces), chopped (optional)

3 to 4 leaves kale (any kind), stems chopped and leaves roughly torn or shredded (optional)

2 cups (4 1/2 ounces) dried apples

apple cider vinegar (optional)

Fine salt (optional)

For the dumplings:

1 large egg

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

1/3 cup water or milk (any kind), plus more as needed

Freshly ground black pepper, for serving

Steps

Start the stew: In a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid, combine the ham hock or pork shank and the water or broth so the meat is almost submerged. Add the onion and kale stems, if using. Set the pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, uncovered. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the meat is tender and falling off the bone, about 2 hours.

Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let cool for a few minutes. Add the kale leaves, if using, and dried apples to the pot, and increase the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook, uncovered, until the apples are tender but not mushy, about 20 minutes. (If you cook them longer, they will break down and thicken the stew — not a bad thing, if you want that.)

Once it’s cool enough to handle, separate the meat from the bone, cutting or tearing it into bite-size pieces (discard or compost the bone and any fat or skin). Return the meat to the pot and simmer until the apples are done.

Make the dumplings and finish the stew: While the apples are simmering, in a medium bowl, use a spoon to lightly beat the egg, then gently mix in the flour, baking powder, and salt just to combine. Stir in the water or milk to create a thick batter. Add a little more water or milk, if needed, to reach the desired consistency.

Once the apples are done, check the stew. If you’d like it thinner, add a little more water or broth. Taste, and stir in a splash of apple cider vinegar to brighten the flavors and cut the richness, if you’d like, then season to taste with salt. (Depending on how salty the meat is, you might not need any.)

Drop approximately heaping 1-tablespoon portions of the dumpling batter into the simmering stew; you should get 8 to 10 dumplings. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the dumplings are springy to the touch and cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes.

Serve right away, either ladled into individual shallow bowls or family-style, with freshly ground black pepper to top each portion.

Substitutions: For more whole grains >> replace some of the all-purpose flour with whole-wheat or rye flour. To make the dumplings vegan >> omit the egg and use 3 tablespoons of oil (any type) instead.

Variations: Instead of ham hock or pork shank, use 1 to 2 pounds sliced, smoked sausage, such as kielbasa, simmered in 6 cups water or broth for 10 minutes before proceeding with the recipe. Leftover protein like ham, chicken or turkey would also work well. To make it meatless >> use 12 ounces dried beans, such as pinto or navy; 1 teaspoon smoked paprika; and a glug of oil, cooking the beans for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until tender (no need to soak the beans, unless they are old). Beans will require more salt than ham hock, pork shank, or sausage; start with 1 teaspoon after the beans are cooked, then adjust from there. If you’re making this in a 6-quart pot, you can increase the dumpling batter by up to half — don’t do any more or you’ll overcrowd them.

Nutrition per serving (about 1 1/2 cups stew and 1 1/2 dumplings), based on 6: 276 calories, 33g carbohydrates, 69mg cholesterol, 7g fat, 4g fiber, 29g protein, 2g saturated fat, 1298mg sodium, 13g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from recipes in “The New Pennsylvania Dutch Cook Book” by Ruth Hutchison (Harper & Row, 1958). (Dried Fruit and Ham Stew With Dumplings)