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Sum Pig puts its food business on track at the Fort Washington train station

At the newly opened window of its commissary kitchen, you'll find smoked pork loin sandwiches, nachos topped with brisket, seasoned fries, and Bassetts ice cream.

The Western from Sum Pig is smoked pork loin on a roll with Cheddar, thick-cut bacon, and barbecue sauce.
The Western from Sum Pig is smoked pork loin on a roll with Cheddar, thick-cut bacon, and barbecue sauce.Read moreMICHAEL KLEIN / Staff

Sum Pig, a catering truck, recently opened a window at its commissary kitchen in the old Fort Washington train station, where it dispenses sandwiches, nachos, seasoned fries, and Bassetts ice cream. (But first you have to find it, tucked behind Sage Spa at 429 S. Bethlehem Pike.)

Steve Koste was born in the Raleigh, N.C., area and started cooking for friends while living in Manayunk. Then he and partner Jessica Iannuzzi bought into the truck trend in 2010.

By the end of 2012, they had quit their jobs — he was managing a restaurant and she was working for a title company — to work full-time on private events and festivals, mostly in the suburbs.

“We were very happy,” Iannuzzi said. “The truck gives you a lot of freedom.”

They leased the old train station, located two minutes from the Pennsylvania Turnpike and Route 309, nearly two years ago. Koste prepares brisket, chicken, and pork loin (not butt) in his A1 Competition smoker set up in nearby Ambler. For a year or so, they cooked and loaded up the truck.

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But when the coronavirus hit and large events were canceled, he and Iannuzzi decided to sell a limited menu to the public Thursday to Sunday. It’s not traditional barbecue, in the sense that Sum Pig does not offer meats and such by the pound. But the sandwiches and nachos are topped with legitimate proteins. There’s no seating, though one could spread a blanket in the adjacent grassy area and dine while watching the SEPTA trains.

For now, it’s open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday to Saturday, noon to 8 p.m. Sunday.