Shank's moves uptown

Shank's & Evelyn's, which for nearly five decades dispensed homestyle Italian fare from a luncheonette at 10th and Carpenter, resurfaces at lunchtime Wednesday at 120 S. 15th St., next to the parking garage at 15th and Sansom Streets.

Now known as Shank's Original, it still has a Poppa in the house -- Pamela Poppa, daughter of founders Frank ("Shank") and Evelyn Perri. She's cooking everything on premises from scratch: cheesesteaks made with sirloin, sliced-to-order hoagies, slow-cooked roast pork, giant breakfast Giambotto (six eggs plus 12 vegetables and meats; serves 4), and the signature chicken-cutlet sandwiches, with pan-fried chicken, broccoli rabe, and sharp Provolone. (My now-21-year-old daughter regards her first Shank's chicken cutlet, at age 7, as a religious experience.)

This location will offer salads, fruit, muffins and bagel sandwiches.

No, folks. Tripe and veal scaloppini did not make the trip uptown.

The Poppas sold the Shank's name to Marcello Ciurlino, who is planning to franchise. But slowly. A second location might be coming to Columbus Boulevard. Ciurlino, who's been in the food business all his life, has had franchises; he also helped his brother David open Old City's Paradigm and Dolce.

It's built for speed; the narrow storefront allows only counter seating. Hours will be 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays; Saturday lunch will wait for the fall.

Below is the bill of fare.