Kibitz Room in Margate: Oy, what a view

Of all the iconic foods one could indulge in at the Shore - hot boardwalk donuts, fresh seafood, pizza, saltwater taffy - corned beef and pastrami probably doesn't make the obvious list.

But that's likely because the new Margate branch of Cherry Hill's classic deli, the Kibitz Room, is still only a few weeks old.

Neil Parish's Shore place serves up the same quality deli fare that has made the original such a standby, from hearty soups with handmade kreplach stuffed with ground deli meats to the deep-flavored comfort of tender brisket platters, fresh-baked knishes, and, of course, those overstuffed sandwiches.

But, oy, what a view.

This Kibitz is perched in the bayside building that last year was Junior's Seafood, and the curtain of hard salamis hanging behind the deli counter frames a picturesque marina scene.

Just in case the back-porch counter seats aren't enough to soak in the full salt-air ambiance, there's even a seating area at the end of the dock where Kibitz's servers will deliver your meal.

While you're at it, try the popular triple-decker Glutton for Punishment, which is piled so high with layers of good Sy Ginsberg corned beef (from Detroit), pastrami, cole slaw, swiss, and Russian dressing on rye, that your boatside view may be interrupted for just a moment while you stretch your jaws wide enough to take a bite.

But go slow: Summer at the Shore is meant for sunburn, not heartburn.

- Craig LaBan
Glutton For Punishment, $14.50 a "half" sandwich or $18.50 for a whole, The Kibitz Room, 9315 Amherst Ave., Margate, N.J. 08402, 609-823-0200; greatpastrami.com.