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You are what you sprinkle on food

Guide to a world of condiments.

Condiments may seem simple, but, as chef Marcus Samuelsson writes in New American Table: "They reflect who we are more than any other food."

Not only do condiments offer flavor, they contribute color, texture, and aroma to any dish. And they can speak of culture and history. Take ketchup, that all-American dunk. It was created in Asia, with nary a tomato in sight, at least for a century or two. Here are some of the world's favorite condiments, the ones you'll find on the dining tables of each continent, and how you can use them in your kitchen.

Dijon mustard: Made by mixing powdered mustard or mustard seeds with a liquid, often vinegar, water, or wine, and adding herbs, spices, or other flavorings as desired. Assertive yet adaptable, French Dijon mustard may be stirred into sauces and vinaigrettes, used as a coating for grilled chicken and salmon, or served as-is with cold cuts and sausages.

Olive oil: Whether green and peppery or golden and buttery or somewhere in between, olive oil comes in various quality grades. Extra-virgin olive oil, the first pressing from the olives, is considered the best (and is priced accordingly). Drizzle on cooked fish, chicken, mashed potatoes; use in vinaigrettes and sauces.

Pickapeppa sauce: Called "Jamaican ketchup," this brand-name sauce is made with cane vinegar, tomatoes, onions, sugar, mangoes, raisins, tamarinds, peppers and spices. It is aged one year in oak barrels for a taste described by the makers as "sweet but mellow." Pickapeppa gives snap to cream cheese; also can be used to season meats, vegetables, fish, poultry.

Fish sauce: As ubiquitous in Southeast Asian cooking as salt is in the West, fish sauce is stirred into curries and stir-fries, whisked into sauces, and used as a dipping sauce for spring rolls and satay. Made from fermented, salted fish, the sauce is intensely briny and smells pungent. Names vary by country: nam pla in Thailand, nuoc nam in Vietnam, patis in the Philippines, shottsuru in Japan.

Hot red pepper sauce: Made with chiles, salt, and vinegar, different Latin hot sauces give heat to all sorts of dishes, from chili stews to tamales. Plus gumbo, stewed greens, and chicken wings.

Harissa: From North Africa, a spicy blend of oil, chiles, garlic, cumin, coriander, caraway, and other spices. Serve with couscous, soups, stews.

Piri-piri sauce: Piri-piri (or peri-peri) is the word for the small, incendiary bird's-eye chiles of Africa. That gives you a clue to the fire in the sauce, popular in southern Africa and Portugal. Use it as a marinade or sauce with chicken, seafood, soups.

Major Grey's Chutney: Salute Major Grey, whoever he was, for though the sun long ago set on the British Empire, this Raj-era condiment remains popular around the world. Made from mangos, onions, raisins, vinegar, and brown sugar, it adds a spicy lushness to any plate. Pair with grilled lamb chops, curry dishes, rice casseroles.

Sriracha sauce: A thickish hot chile sauce from Thailand with just enough sugar to curb the fire and deepen the flavor. Use it to zip up everything from stir-fries to sushi.

Worcestershire sauce: Named for an English county, this condiment is believed to have roots in India. Ingredients include tamarind, garlic, onions, cloves, molasses, and anchovies. Dash on steaks or broiled fish, mix into Caesar and other salad dressings, spike oysters on the half shell or Bloody Marys.

Soy sauce: Fermented from soybeans, wheat flour, water and salt, soy sauce adds depth and complexity to foods. Soy sauces come in a range of flavors and intensities. Japanese soy sauce tends to be lighter than Chinese versions. Use in marinades for chicken, beef, fish; pour as a dipping sauce for sushi; use as a secret ingredient in meat loaf; jazz up a vegetable stir-fry with a few spoonfuls.

Sambal: A mix of chiles, brown sugar, and salt in its most basic form, sambal is spooned up in Indonesia, Malaysia, and southern India to serve with rice and curries. Use as a garnish for noodle dishes, cucumber salads.

Malt vinegar: This brown vinegar made from malted barley is a favorite sprinkle on fish and chips in England (and Rhode Island, too). Consider using in place of other vinegars in sauces, salad dressings.